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Quick Release Fittings - Oil Lines

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Sat Oct 24, 2015 12:49 pm PostPost subject: Quick Release Fittings - Oil Lines
AK
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Reading some stuff about the Castrol Nexcel oil 'cartridge' things (see.... doing some sponsor name dropping for you Fee! ) got me thinking.

Does anyone use the quick-release fittings on oil lines?

Are they robust?

I'm thinking we could use them on the base 'feed' fitting from our dry sump tanks to allow a fairly clean break and possible removal.

Anyone who saw me on the Sat eve of last SMRC round might understand my thinking behind this Laughing

Any issues you can think of using a dry break system?
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Sat Oct 24, 2015 1:01 pm PostPost subject:
AK
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like so



http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/dry-break-connectors/jiffy-tite-quick-connect-dry-break-fittings-2



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Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:23 pm PostPost subject:
StuartT
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We use a lot of quick connect couplers offshore and they suffer the test of time and pressures they will never see on a car, so cant see why they wouldn't be suitable, unless heat would be an issue for them.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 6:19 am PostPost subject:
AK
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good to know.... The side of the engine I'm thinking is away from downpipes/turbo etc.

Oil doesnt really get above 100deg so that heat wont be an issue.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:44 am PostPost subject:
David Long
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The compressed air equivalent is pretty universal now and I've been using them for 10+ years with no issues other than they can get stiff. If it was me, I would protect them from accidental disconnection with a sleeve and make sure they can't flop about.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:54 am PostPost subject:
AK
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a sleeve would be a good idea for grit/dirt anyway.

I've used quick release valved fittings for fuel sampling points in the past and only had an issue after some grit got involved.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:32 am PostPost subject:
Craig.H
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We use them on the rov's at 2300m water depths without an issue. Working pressures of around 3250psi but our temperatures only reach about 40deg c. Can't see higher temps being an issue though.

We use tywraps, behind the sleeves you pull back to disconnect, to stop them popping off when subsea due to pressure/vibrations however I would be inclined to find something a bit more robust to use on your car!
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:41 am PostPost subject:
AK
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... a bigger tye wrap Very Happy

Na, that is actually a good idea Laughing

I'm thinking an open valve system would be best, rather than valved / dry break.

If a pipe comes off what will the pump try and suck - ?!

So... thinking what if

bottom feed pipe gets damaged

possibly valve / dry brak on tank out put, but an open on the pipe to the dry sump pump. That way the oil pressure would drop instantly and the ECU would cut the engine - and no (or little) oil spilled on track.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:57 am PostPost subject:
James B
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AK wrote:
... a bigger tye wrap Very Happy

Na, that is actually a good idea Laughing

I'm thinking an open valve system would be best, rather than valved / dry break.

If a pipe comes off what will the pump try and suck - ?!

So... thinking what if

bottom feed pipe gets damaged

possibly valve / dry brak on tank out put, but an open on the pipe to the dry sump pump. That way the oil pressure would drop instantly and the ECU would cut the engine - and no (or little) oil spilled on track.


I think this sounds a great idea. Particularly for those who remove the engine or have reason to remove parts in the oil system regularly.

To avoid any issues of accidental 'popping off' I wonder if you could put a suitably sized heat shrink sleeve over the connection. It'll protect from dirt and will keep the connection tight as well and stopping any separation. Finally, it may also serve to stop any drops of oil.
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 2:03 pm PostPost subject:
foz01
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Potentially handy but I am struggling to see how you benefit other than a full on works race team whereby engine and transmission swaps are common occurrences
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Sun Oct 25, 2015 2:21 pm PostPost subject:
AK
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oil changes!

We have dry sump tanks where its a pain to get a spanner in!

I'm only thinking one fitting, not the entire engine Very Happy
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Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:35 am PostPost subject:
nefarious
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AK wrote:
oil changes!

We have dry sump tanks where its a pain to get a spanner in!

I'm only thinking one fitting, not the entire engine Very Happy


Isn't a simpler, cheaper and more reliable solution to add a T-piece to the oil line at a convenient location (or tap an extra hole into the reservoir tank).
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Mon Oct 26, 2015 12:00 pm PostPost subject:
AK
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good point, but would really need to check whats 'do able'

The dry sump tank has a sumped base, so any drains wouldnt be at true bottom.

the hose runs along the underside of the engine, so not keen on anything potentially Tee'd off a line that could snag. I'd normally run an undertray but I have a habit of destroying them in qualy sessions LOL

I think the best case would be to simply buy a vacuum pump (8l or so) and simply soook the oil out of the tank. It wont drain the system, but hey/ho much easier.

Then that would leave 'big' oil changes to be done when more time permits - tank loose, bottom hose off, pump cover off, belt off, spin the pump to drain oil system. Flush through some oil sing pump... then rebuild it all. Its a ballache to do scrambling around on the ground.
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Mon Oct 26, 2015 12:40 pm PostPost subject:
nefarious
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Do you run a separate electric scavenge pump? If so, I'd tee directly off the output of that and leave a flying lead with a blanking plug in the end. For a quick change just remove the blanking plug and actuate the scavenge pump.

If you're running a multi-port mechanical pump, tee in as close to the pump as possible on the return to reservoir line (again with a flying lead and blacking plate). When you come to change, drain as much as you can by gravity, then crank the engine (without spark/fuel) to pump out the rest.

ETA - not sure what your pump looks like but the zetec FF boys use a system similar to the second one described as spin up the oil pump using an electric drill (disconnected from crank drive).
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Mon Oct 26, 2015 12:49 pm PostPost subject:
AK
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yup, its pretty much as per the second option.

mech pump, shallow pan with pump mounted on it to scavenge back to tank. Space is the issue. I'll look for some pics of my setup to reasses the options.

I spin the pump by hand as the pump sits about 50mm from the radiator - no space for normal drill to get in.
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