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E30 316 auto to 328

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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:08 pm PostPost subject:
Tedswagon
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shedrool83 wrote:
. . Its a good time to change the heater valve o-rings with the engine out as with a bit of effort you can get the grommet out and a socket onto the top pipe nuts from the bay if you fancy rolling about the other footwell .
Wink


Well, I didnt fancy it but thought it best to pull them out and have a look, so I pulled the glovebox out and all the trim panels round it until I could see this . . . .



Easy to get to the two bolts but the other torx head bolt holding the black pipe is impossible to get to as its behind the brake bracket. . . . . any ideas welcomed! I have no idea how to get it out with the tools i have!
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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:09 pm PostPost subject:
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Following your advice I pulled the rubber grommet out into the engine bay and undid the other pipe from that side. TBH I pushed the rubber grommet into the car from the engine first - was a pain in the arse to get it back through thus the bit of rubber missing!! Confused Confused





Rubber grommet out - you can see the bolts



You have to twist it a bit to get it out without dropping the bolts back into the footwell. As you can see the lower one is a bit corroded, need to get the O ring changed for sure!



Thats it with the pipe removed.
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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:11 pm PostPost subject:
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Thanks for the advice - got the O ring seals replaced. Here are some snaps! I plumbed for the small hex head in a small mole grips technique . . not sure I can TM that Mad





Also fitted the power steering pipes from Danthe. Does the back pipe need to be tied back to anything? Its just held in place with the bolt connection to the rack.


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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:13 pm PostPost subject:
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I went to attach the track rod ends to the struts and realised they dont fit! I wrongly assumed they would just bolt on - but looks like I was wrong. What TREs are you all using?





The track rod ends are, like the rack, from an E46 and all I needed to do was swap the ends for E36 ones.
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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:14 pm PostPost subject:
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Another issue I had today, was when I bolted in the clio servo and attached it to the brake bar I tried the pedal.



Obviously I waited until I had put the glovebox back together!! Sad and this is what I noticed!

https://youtu.be/BI5sZgHDXnw

It is a loud click - like the pinging of a spring and you feel it through the pedal. Please tell me its an adjustment or something simple, rather than a fooked servo!
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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:15 pm PostPost subject:
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I ordered new e36 outter track rod ends and they arrived today, feck that's quick! CP4L. Test fitted and all looks good.




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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:15 pm PostPost subject:
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We had some nice weather in Edinburgh over the weekend!! So I had to find a job or two I could do outside!

Clutch lines - *I would like to add, i have never bent a pipe for brakes or other before this! - found an old crusty pipe for along the bulkhead from master towards slave and started bending the pipe bought from BMW. I think it turned out pretty good , then went to fit to the car an it needed some more bending.

My tool of choice for all bending was edge of wooden table, hands and pipe bending plyers as in the photo. I found it tricky getting the bend angles correct but happy how it turned out.





I also did all of the small brake lines. Didnt do the ones which go along the trailing arms as I will wait until they are on the car and then see what I can fashion without a template! All the brake lines are Cupro rather than copper.
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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:16 pm PostPost subject:
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With the trackrod ends not working for me last week I started on the rear end!! I got the trailing arms out and the hubs and I went to assemble sitting in the sun . . . it was at that stage I realised my rear hubs from the 316 are not the correct size for the 325 bearings!





So I managed to get another pair from the zone facebook page. Got them during the week.

One of them had part of the bearing race still attached. Pulled that off, gave them some attention and put them on!


















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Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:16 pm PostPost subject:
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With the hubs on I decided to add the bushes and get the trailing arms on . . . . . feck, whats the craic with this . . . got to this point and then decided to put it away - will come back to it. If you have any ideas where I might have gone wrong please let me know.





It might not look like it - but they do not line up!! Confused Confused









Any ideas welcome
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Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:53 pm PostPost subject:
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Hi all,
I was scratching my head for ages about this one. With some brute force and hammering I got to here - but was concerned and didnt feel right - and importantly it wasnt fitted!





So I quizzed a zoner on FB and he asked what method i used for bush removal and was it possible I had bent the arms?


Bush removal was force them out from the inside - so that lead to the use of a measuring tape!!!

I had two pairs of arms powder coated at the same time but the second pair were more pitted and not as nice a finish so I had left them to the side. Here are the comparison dimensions; 8O 8O 8O









And here is the one I was trying to get into the subframe . . . .



Thats quite a bit out! Surprised
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Mon Jul 23, 2018 2:29 pm PostPost subject:
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As has been the case with a lot of the build, learning as I go, I ended up stripping back and reassembling.







With different trailing arms I eventually got it all together and put it aside to focus on the diff.

The diff is in good shape but needed a new coat of protection from the elements!











Typical wire brush action followed by a few coats of Jotun.





Bolts were all left to dissolve the rust in the detox gel. then all bolted up, liberal use of thread lock bolted up, coated the bolt heads in some hamerite and stuck it into the car.








Fired the handbrake cables in at the same time and left the drive shafts for another day!
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Mon Jul 23, 2018 2:30 pm PostPost subject:
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I put the drive shafts on, pushed the splines end into the hub - then bolted up at the diff. Both sides. Then through tapping the hub and jacking up the trailing arm coaxed the threaded end of the drive shaft through the hub . . . on one side only!! 8O not sure what I need to do to get the other one through - ideas welcome.






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Mon Sep 10, 2018 7:18 pm PostPost subject:
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Got one of the nuts on and tightish using this method - I will get it up to correct ftlbs when wheel on and off the stand


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Mon Sep 10, 2018 7:19 pm PostPost subject:
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I went to assemble the rear suspension and realised I was missing some bits - so I got an order into Cotswolds!

This is all I had,


Took ages to find the top washers . . . . #safeplace








Top mounts are from a e46 cabby and I have top mount strengthening kit on there as well.
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Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:22 am PostPost subject:
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So I had some time in the garage yesterday afternoon. I was still not sure how to get he hub nut on the near side. So I jacked up the drive shaft so it was horizontal with the diff output flange - the shortest distance between the hub and the diff.

I could turn the drive shaft freely. Was still baffled at that stage how I was going to get it in properly.

My car is up against the garage wall - so its hard to see where the hub bolt is. I decided to hit the hub from the outside - knocking it towards the diff. This tapping with the constant turning of the drive shaft eventually brought the shaft towards the outside. PROGRESS!!!!

I kept that up until I eventually had enough to get the hub nut on - same bit of wood to tighten up the hub nut. Delighted with that. Very Happy

Next - I went to put the shock on - but the threads for the bolt were not clean enough and the bolt would not go in.

Without a tap that size I decided to make one of my own. - Luckly I found a bolt which fitted and then with a whizz from the cutting disc - I had my own tap.




This with loads of PTFE spray I cleaned out the threads - took ages of in and out and extra groves in the bolt got it nice and clean. Then I bolted the shock on and ended up with it looking like this.




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